Back in the Water!

Before my chocolate making plans for tomorrow were created, I was originally planning to leave Ubud today for Nusa Lembongan to chase some perfect waves.  Now that I'm staying here until Saturday morning, I really felt I was missing out on surf- so I took a 40 minute taxi down south to Kerama's this morning.  I've heard of this spot and how rippable it is, but also that it can be extremely crowded.  You can imagine how blown away I was when we pulled up and saw a perfect seven footer roll through the lineup and as it died out, I could see that there were only three people in the water!  I ran as fast as I could down the beach and was right out there!  Some of the bigger sets were up to ten foot, with most in the six to eight foot range and powerful!  It felt so great to be back in the water.  With so few people in the water, I got heaps of excellent waves and also my fair share of beatings, sometimes getting caught inside by a big set, sometimes take off too late and ending up cartwheeling down the face of the wave and rag dolled under water.  The wave looks playful, but packs a serious punch!  I've got a sore neck, knee, and hip, but also a big smile on my face, which makes all the pain go away!